Update: March 2011

:-/

I straightened a week ago and just got around to posting the pics. I trimmed my hair (by myself :-/) 6 days after taking these pics.

My hair is in better condition than I thought it would be but there were still some issues.
Because I've been wearing my hair natural since November and have not been trimming every three months like I used to, the SSK's took over. They weren't playing either. Some of them were a couple inches up the strand!! They were EVERYWHERE.

I did not have a ton of split ends although I havent been moisturizing or oiling regularly but that could be because they broke off. My growth-retention did not impress me and my hair seemed thinner to me in some places.

I've been thinking about going back to  my old regimen until the end of the year just to go hard in 2011. I'm still not sure yet though. If I find a decent, natural looking wig, I'll let you guys know.

*please excuse the pantylines lol*

2011 Let's Go!!!

(Pony Tail) Taken Nov 11th 2010

(2 week old braid-out) Taken Oct 15th 2010

(Pseudo-length check) Taken Oct 15th 2010

Hi, Followers old and new! I'm back with my end-of-the-year update and New Years goals. I can't believe 2011 will bring me into Year Three of my healthy hair journey. I started this blog in December of 2008, and although I wasn't able to keep it up the way I wanted to, it's great to have a photo journal of my progress and if it helps others-even better! Currently my longest layer is MBL and I'm not too far from WL sooo *pops champagne?*. I have not been the best at documenting over the past months due to my FT job and being a FT student but as you can see, I made a few attempts. :/

 

Looking over my "Moving On" post from January 2010, I cannot believe how fast this year went by! Under my list of challenges in 2009, I can say that Ive made some progress in 3 out of the 4:

-I have not  been able to find a protective style that I love. It's not due to a lack of styles available. It's definitely my lack of skill lol.

-I have cut the amount of breakage from detangling down on wash day with the help of my seamless wide-tooth comb, my steamer and pre-pooing with oil.

-I have also managed to put the scissors down. Split ends are not a chronic issue for me but if I happen to find them I'll dust or do the search-and-destroy method.

-As far as questioning protective styling, I have cut down drastically from my strict regimen in 2009. I did not use any braid extensions, half-wigs or weave in the last 6 months. I used heat more frequently than I'd like because it was convenient and gave me consistent and predictable results. I even experimented with twist-outs and braid-outs and after a couple failed attempts I fell in love with them.

Challenges in 2010:

-Single strand knots (hate them!). Wearing loose natural styles like braid-outs and twist-outs often lend itself to SSK's for my hair. If I dont stretcch my hair with a cold blow-dry, I notice more SSK's. I just cut them out.

-Because of my full schedule, my diet has suffered. I dont remember when I last took a multivitamin and I've been eating way more fast food than I'm accustom to. I noticed the difference immediately in the strength of my nails so I'm pretty certain that it has had adverse effects on my hair.

-My scalp has recently been flaky and itchy. I started washing more frequently but it has not helped. I know it's tied to my diet because I started noticing it after I stopped taking my multivitamin and omega oil capsules.

-My moisturizing regimen has fallen off a cliff. I just have not been consistently moisturizing at all. My hair was less pliable, drier and more susceptible to breakage.

-Product junkism surfaced during the last six months of 2010. Because I was experimenting with different styles and using more heat, I'd try out new products and deviated from my regimen. 

What I've learned this year:

-Moisturizing is important. The ends of the hair are the driest and they need that extra attention.

- In a recent youtube video Anthony Dickey said something that stuck with me "Take advantage of the blow-dry." That goes against what Ive learned about heat-styling in the past two years. When I heat-styled, my hair was free of product because they say that product weighs the hair down and it actually may promote heat damage. Anthony D uses a moisturizing leave-in to blow-dry then flat-iron natural hair. You can see his explanation in THIS video around the 10 minute mark. I'll be experimenting with this when I decide to flat iron my hair again.

-For a short time I experimented with clean eating, drinking green smoothies, eliminating processed sugar and cardio exercises and the results were great: better sleep, more energy, clear skin, soft skin and best of all accelerated hair growth. I had the time to make my own meals, exercise and do green smoothies in the morning for breakfast because I was on break from school. After school started back, I slowly crept back into my old habits...

-Less protective styling for me meant drier hair and less retention-period.

-Finally, Ive learned that longer hair equals more responsibility. More time spent in the shower, more time spent detangling, more product used, more time spent styling.

   In 2011, I'd like to be waist length. I plan on using less heat, stretching my hair more, moisturizing and sealing consistently and getting my diet and exercise in check. 

Even with all the challenges I faced in 2010 I definitely fell in love with my hair this year. Having this head of hair is not easy but  it's all mine and I absolutely love it! *Sesame Street muppet dance* 

*Late* May Update.

Ive gained more thickness from leaving my hair alone.
It's not for everyone but I do protective styles that dont have to be detangled on wash day i.e braids/cornrows under a half-wig . I also only comb on wash day. Low- manipulation has been KEY for me.

Other than that my steamer and my seamless comb help with losing less hair and my regimen is pretty simple now: I always pre-poo under a heat cap w/ olive oil or coconut oil then detangle(which reminds me! I dont detangle with conditioner. I detangle with oil because I have fine strands). Wash w/ shampoo (in Celie plaits- not loyal to any brand), do an ACV rinse and DC. Im a fan of AOHSR and Aveda DR.

TTYL :)

Recent Random Hair Pics July 09-April09

Since I began my hair jounrney, my hair has become shinier, stronger, thicker, longer and much healthier overall. More updates to come in DEC.

Unavoidable Damage

Heat-Styling wash day drama.

Before learning how to properly care for my hair, I would say a lot of the damage was accumulated from manipulation and unhealthy practices between wash cycles and when wash day came around, I just expected fists of hair to come out.

Now, I've virtually eliminated damage throughout the days that precede wash day and I've drastically cut down on the amount of hair loss after washing and detangling. With heat-styling though, dry combing (the real devil for kinky hair) can't be avoided.

I detangle, while damp, before blowdrying with the concentrator on cool. When I'm combing out each small section with a rattail comb, there's bound to be some breakage. When I look at those bulb-less pieces of broken hair that could have been , I cant help but think about length being taken off. Right now I don't want anything to come between me and BSL, especially when my mother just told me hair stops growing at 18. (Pray for her). I have doubters to prove wrong!

It may be time for me to start thinking of other methods.

The "My Dominican Salon" Blow-Out.

I've been to a Dominican salon when I lived in Brooklyn. I saw how a blow-out was done on natural hair and decided against getting the service. This salon is in my neighborhood in Lawrenceville GA.

Someone commented on their youtube channel about the amount of smoke coming out of the dryer. This was their response:

"the smoke you are seeing is actually the moisture from the creams evaporating, this process does not damage the hair, infact it grows the hair and keeps it healthy , remember with natural hair always request "deep conditioning""

((???)) I know some relaxed girls rave about these salon services, but I would not want this process done to my hair. Regardless of how it looked at the end, that's far too much heat and manipulation for me.

I don't think I'll ever go to a hairdresser again.

When Heat-Styling Isn't For You

I received a reader comment that I wanted to address in a post,because it brings up an excellent point:
Heat-styling isn't always practical for everyone. I'll give you several instances where I either opted to wear my natural hair or braids and cornrows:

-My trip to Scotland. I happen to enjoy dreary-rainy weather but, once I walked two blocks in that fog, my hair went Diana Ross on me.
-I went to school in the West Indies for 2 years and the heat was no joke. Everyone either had a relaxer or they wore their natural hair. I aligned with the naturals.
-During the summer in NY, after class my friends and I would find ourselves all across the boroughs exploring new places with our student metro card. All that daily walking in the hot sun coupled with the humidity was too much for a press.

Sweating profusely, certain temperatures and thick, coarse resistant hair should be taken into consideration when contemplating any style that involves heat. Otherwise, it could be a waste of time and money.

Maintaining Straight Hair.

You can stretch relaxers, why not heat-styled natural hair?
Here are a few of my tips and tricks to making the straight look last:

-When you shower at night or in the morning, your scarf and your shower cap can't leave your head, especially if your bathroom resembles a sauna when you're showering. Make sure all of your strands are hidden underneath your tightly secured scarf before you put on the plastic cap.

-When it's raining, foggy, humid or any other indication of precipitation, opt for a sleek bun. I usually put on a dab of oil, serum or moisture block before styling. A well-prepared heat-styled natural may also Google her local weather forecast for the week and anticipate having to carry a stylish scarf or hoodie, elastic band and mini-umbrella.

-Try to avoid getting water on your edges when doing your face washing routine. The soap can dry out the hairline and the water will cause it to revert. It took lots of practice but I've become really good at rinsing my face, with my eyes open, in sections.

-If I have to use a product that contains Humectants or a water-based moisturizer, I rub it into my hands and apply a very light amount to the strands before applying a drop of oil.

-I keep my straight style in for, at the very least, 2 weeks. Throughout the week I'm not heavy handed with products and if I feel like my scalp is getting oily I'll use a rag (pointed into a finger shape) or a q-tip dipped in diluted Apple Cider Vinegar to clean my scalp.

Testing The Temperature.

When using any heat-styling tool on your hair, you should test the temperature first:

Get a paper towel and moisten it until it's damp. Press the tissue paper
between the heating plates of your flat iron and hold for a few seconds. Discoloration, smoking and sizzling of the paper, would be an indication that the iron is too hot.
For hot combs, place the comb on a dry piece of paper and leave it for a few seconds. An imprint of the comb is normal but any discoloration or burning would also signal the need to rest the comb or turn down your heating oven.

Heat Styled Natural: Mystic!

Why stay natural ?
I went natural by accident. I started clipping the ends of my relaxed hair, and before I knew it, it turned into a BC.

I stay natural because I hate the feeling of the demarcation line between new growth and straight hair; natural hair is less time consuming - I do not have to baby it as I did my relaxed hair. I have not been to the hairdresser in years - I couldn't do that relaxed. I retain more length as a natural than I did relax.

What’s your usual regimen?
For convenience, whenever I am in school, I box braid with kinky extensions, and spray a daily moisture solution (water based on my braids. Every Saturday, my choice of shampoo is to rinse my hair with Shaikarai (mixed with hot water), massage the scalp, rinse and air-dry. When my hair is out of braids and loose, I henna every month; every Saturday I rinse with my Shaikarai mix, DC under my pibbs for 30 minutes and I alternate between flat ironing (maybe 4 X per year), twisting or a loose up-do.

What's your heat styling regimen?
I slept overnight with henna applied to my hair. On wash day after rinsing the henna out I rollerset and stayed under the dryer for 35mins. Products used:
Karmin Iron to straighten
Redken Heat Glide for protection
Elucence Silk hydrating elixir for moisture and shine
Damage Control Leave-In
Water for setting hair
After taking the setters out, I brushed the hair out, sprayed protector on each section and flat iron. I turned the iron up to 350, flipped the back up when I curled and that's about it.

Any tips for fellow heat styled naturals?
Try to minimize heat as much as possible. I am 4a, recently experimented with rollersetting, and I love it! It is the perfect way to get the hair straight with no heat damage. A rollerset before flat ironing is a healthier way to get natural hair straight. It minimizes the need to go over the hair strands with the flatiron more than once. This reduces heat damage.

See more of Mystic on her Fotki.

Blow drying tip: Air flow direction

One of the most common mistakes made during this heat styling step is the direction we guide the flow of air coming out of the blow dryer.
The cuticle layers of the hair are comparable to that of scales on a fish. If you have some experience cleaning fish, you know that the best way to raise those scales are to use the knife against the way they lay.
The cuticle layers of the hair are pointing toward the end of the hair strand. Blasting air in the opposite direction lifts the hair cuticles and making it more prone to damage, tangles and roughness.
Guide the air flow in the direction the hair grows for shiny hair and flat cuticles.

Flat Iron Temperature

Everyone loves a Sedu iron. It's the popular kid in the flat iron class. I'm not lucky enough to own one, so this is not a review of it's functions. My concern is the instructions that come with this iron:

Adjustable temperature: 240 ^oF~410^oF (120^oC - 200^oC) for all hair types. For normal hair, temperature setting at 370-390^oF is recommended; for bleached, fragile, damaged and fine hair, the lower setting is advised; for coarse, thick, ethnic and resistant hair in healthy condition, maximum heat on high setting is used to save time and effort.

Sedu gets most things right. Fine, damaged hair should use a lower setting and healthier hair can take more heat. It's the use of the word "ethnic" that may confuse some people. These instructions are not unique to Sedu. Most flat irons have a similar guide. I'm just picking on Sedu today.
We know that ethnic hair is not necessarily coarse hair. We also know that heat softens the keratin of hair. But there are some people who don't know. Some people may read these instructions thinking that heat setting should be dictated by ethnicity.

Even with very coarse hair, the highest heat setting can still damage or "train" hair. This is how straighter ends/ pieces can come about. The lowest possible setting, to get the desired results, should always be used.

Here are some tips for getting a sleek look without high direct heat:
-Your hair should be well-conditioned and detangled before you begin the straightening process.
-Blow dry or roller set first. I use the tension blow dry method on cold.
-Flat iron in smaller sections
-Pull the hair taut with your hand as you are straightening
-Do the final pass of the flat iron with a comb (comb chase method to ensure even distribution of heat)
-If you still don't have the desired straightness, try wrapping your hair with Saran wrap or a head tie and sitting under a dryer for 10-15 mins.

Getting it straight: Coarse vs. Fine

Tara asks, " Why does my friends type 4 hair get straighter and stay straighter than my type 3 hair if we use the same heat setting?"

Hey Tara,
The outcome of your results actually have more to do with your hair texture, rather than the type.
You may be surprised to learn that your hair is likely more coarse than your friends. That is, the measure of the circumference of your hair strand is larger than hers. Coarse hair is stronger and less susceptible to damage. It tends to resist processing and straightening.
Conversely, fine hair is very easy to process and is most susceptible to damage from chemical, heat and daily styling. Medium or normal hair doesn't carry any special tendencies (so lucky).
One person can have a mixture of textures on separate areas of their head. You can also find the various textures throughout all hair types. However, a large percentage of type 4's commonly fall into the fine-normal category. Of course, we all know of some exceptions.

"Hydration System"

This is the rundown of a heat styling regimen that I got from a Lawrenceville stylist. She says it's key to preventing reversion.

-Clarifying, moisturizing & detangling poo.
-Moisturizing conditioner
-Steam for 15-30 minutes
-Rinse
-Leave in conditioner
-Blow dry
-Heat protectant
-Flat iron in small sections starting from the nape
-Heat protectant once more.

I have a few discrepancies with this regimen. Three different shampoos seem like a bit much and heat protectant again at the end?