I Spy Some Healthy Hair Care.

Ain't love grand?- You know the love between a black woman and her head tie.

While ignoring the criminal beside her, I noticed RiRi's strategically placed scarf. The positioning indicates special attention to the hairline. I did wonder how she managed to keep her edges intact with that high maintenance hair of hers. Ursela sure doesn't travel around with her and daily heat would be disastrous. So the secret is in the scarf ladies. I wonder what the bedding fabric is because her ends... lemme stop! lol.

Thumbs up to RiRi for some healthy hair care, hopefully some healthy relationships will follow?

Do you guys cover your entire forehead with your head tie? I couldnt do it. My skin would breakout from the oil.

Conditioning tip: Got Frizz?

Try a Cholesterol treatment.

Apply the treatment liberally, cover with a plastic cap and go under a heat source for 15-30 minutes then rinse thoroughly.

Fine and thin hair types should avoid using cholesterol treatments as they tend to weigh the hair down.

It's Major: Deep Conditioning

It has preventative and restorative functions. It's a necessity. Period.

The greatest change in the manageability and elasticity of my hair is most definitely due to deep conditioning consistently.Having been dependent on a hairdresser for many years, I thought of deep conditioning as a special extra $20 treatment that I only had to do once a month. It was only recommended to me once a month. At home, conditioning was using the partner that came with the shampoo on sopping wet hair for the 2-3 minutes directed. The use of sulfate-laden shampoos and heat-styling tools should always be preceded by and followed with a conditioning treatment that provides moisture and strength appropriately.

The most difficult thing initially will be recognizing when your hair needs a specific treatment i.e oils, moisture, protein or cholesterol. That's why it's important to become an expert on our own hair and not a just copy our hair idols.

I thought I knew how to deep condition when I first started this journey. I was wrong. Mimicking my old hair dresser did nothing for my hair. Here's what I changed:

-Give the DCing process it's due respect: I hop out of the shower after squeezing out excess water, lightly pat with a towel and apply conditioner in sections. This is one of the best tips that I've learned. Removing the excess water allows the conditioner to penetrate better and applying it in sections ensures that I haven't neglected patches of hair.

-The cold water rinse: It closes the cuticles and helps to seal in the moisture.

Make sure you have a deliberate and effective deep conditioning experience. :)

BTW, Shout out to CHAKA who so wonderfully pointed out that the header had been misspelled for months. Smh @ anyone who saw and didn't say anything lol.

Also, if you emailed me, I'm currently going through them so be patient with me. AND if anyone has any tips on how to get over a guy in 24 hours, it would be greatly appreciated ::sniffles::

Who doesn't love a bun!?

How old were you when you fell in love with the Ballerina bun? It's quite possible that the woman who delivered me was wearing a bun when I was pulled out of the womb, because I cant remember a time when I didn't love a bun.

The bun is so versatile. High, low, centered, tight, loose, messy-from the gym to the ballroom, a bun always works.

The bun for growth challenge on LHCF is very popular but for me it's not practical. I would have to brush the hell out of my thick wet hair to get a somewhat decent natural bun. If I do it on fresh, sleek flat ironed hair I would achieve great styles. But, who flat-irons their natural hair to put it in a bun? Nobody-not immediately at least. When I try a bun on week 2 flat ironed hair, it comes out okay, but I can feel the stress on my hairline from having to pull it back tight. By then, my hair would already be a little fuller. Also, when taking down the band I notice a few strands of broken hair. I think that's where some people run into problems with buns and ponytails.

Rock that gorgeous bun, but if you notice your hairline receding and strands without the bulb coming out when you take your hair down, you should let that bun go:(

Multiple uses: Tea Tree Oil.

Tea Tree oil is an essential oil made from Melaleuca alternifolia leaves.

It is known to treat dandruff, foot fungus and acne.
The average cost is around $12 for 1oz., so it's a little expensive but it should last a while.

I really love it for the soothing effect on the scalp. I mix it with conditioner I'm using for a pre-poo and do a quick scalp massage. I also use it for acne spot treatments. It dries the spot up fast, but be careful because it can really dry out the skin when used in high concentration.

Maintaining Straight Hair.

You can stretch relaxers, why not heat-styled natural hair?
Here are a few of my tips and tricks to making the straight look last:

-When you shower at night or in the morning, your scarf and your shower cap can't leave your head, especially if your bathroom resembles a sauna when you're showering. Make sure all of your strands are hidden underneath your tightly secured scarf before you put on the plastic cap.

-When it's raining, foggy, humid or any other indication of precipitation, opt for a sleek bun. I usually put on a dab of oil, serum or moisture block before styling. A well-prepared heat-styled natural may also Google her local weather forecast for the week and anticipate having to carry a stylish scarf or hoodie, elastic band and mini-umbrella.

-Try to avoid getting water on your edges when doing your face washing routine. The soap can dry out the hairline and the water will cause it to revert. It took lots of practice but I've become really good at rinsing my face, with my eyes open, in sections.

-If I have to use a product that contains Humectants or a water-based moisturizer, I rub it into my hands and apply a very light amount to the strands before applying a drop of oil.

-I keep my straight style in for, at the very least, 2 weeks. Throughout the week I'm not heavy handed with products and if I feel like my scalp is getting oily I'll use a rag (pointed into a finger shape) or a q-tip dipped in diluted Apple Cider Vinegar to clean my scalp.

What is an Emollient?

I often heard the word emollient used to describe Castor oil, but my understanding of what it meant was limited only to my inference skills rather than actual research.
I'm glad I took the time to look it up because what I found was very interesting- to me at least.

Emollients serve three basic functions for skin and hair:
-Increasing the ability to retain moisture (hold water)
-Providing a layer of oil to prevent water loss/ evaporation
-Lubricating the skin and hair

Emollients and moisturizers are often used interchangeably, and emollients are specific in their ability to soften skin and hair as well as treat dryness.

Common emollients are: Jojoba oil, Avocado oil, Soybean oil, Vitamin E.
This is where the "oils that moisturize" movement gets it's validity.

Detangling tutorial.

Lisa Akbari would be proud.
Take notes...

The BSM Experience

It was everything everyone said it would be. I noticed:
-Less breakage
-Soft yet strong feel
-Looser curl (temporary)
-Easier detangling

The negatives:
-The evidence of my Blackstrap Molasses Experience is all over my beige rugs in the bathroom
-It stained my shirt
-My 9 year old brother refused to go into the bathroom until every trace of BSM was cleared from the sink. I was in such a haste that I missed a spot. He's such a diva.

My method:
I poured some BSM into an old conditioner tub, added some EVCO and Aussie moist conditioner. I didnt measure. I just mixed and added to get a semi thick consistency and when I realized it wasnt going to get any thicker without me adding more product that was likely to be wasted, I stopped. I did a prepoo w/ just Organix tea tree conditioner, then I shampood with Nexxus Therappe and clarified w/ baking soda to make sure I got the full effect of the BSM treatment.

Overall- The mess is a little discouraging for the potential of adding it into my weekly rotation. The results alone would cause me to use it when I feel like I need a special treatment or when I'm in the mood for that mess again. It may be better as a pre-poo because it's humectant capabilities dont seem to be as potent as honey.
Love the immediate results. Hate the mess.

Oil vs. Moisture

A hot oil treatment enriches the scalp and hair especially when using oils with penetrating properties. The oils contain essential fatty acids (EFA's). The sebum produced naturally by the scalp also contains EFA's. EFA's can help porous and dry hair become more soft flexible.

Moisturizing conditioning treatments contain humectants that help keep up the moisture level in the hair which also makes hair softer and more pliable.

A good treatment should contain both. That's why one of the best ways to enhance a mediocre conditioner is to add some extra virgin olive oil (high in EFA's) and honey (humectant).

Blackstrap Molasses

I've been very curious about blackstrap molasses for about a year now.
I don't know if I looked hard enough but I couldn't find it in Publix or Walmart. I went to Kroger during my lunch break and found it on a bottom shelf with the other organic products.
I thought I got the wrong kind but the only ingredient listed on the label is "Organic Blackstrap Molasses". I went on their site and confirmed that I had the right kind.

The smell is so familiar. I know it's probably used to make some kind of treat that I've smelled and disliked in the West Indies. The taste is bitter. I commend those who drink it for it's health benefits. I don't think I'd be able to get it down.

I've heard many testimonies of soft yet strong hair (and who doesn't love that) after using this stuff. I have to do a little more research before deciding how I'm going to apply this treatment.
I found one way of doing it on a site that promotes natural remedies but I can just imagine trying to glide this super sticky substance (try saying that 5X's fast) down my strands and ending up causing more harm than good.

Simply massage about 1/4 to 1/2 cup of blackstrap molasses (depending on the length of your hair) into your tresses, then cover with a shower cap and allow it to set as long as possible (for an hour or even more, if you can.) Rinse with warm water.

I'll definitely keep you guys posted and if any one has any suggestions on how to use it, I'd very much appreciate them.

Night time care.

Every night, I massage my Extra Virgin Coconut oil (EVCO) mix into my edges and around my hair line. The mix is about 1.5 tbs of EVCO, and 3 drops of peppermint, rosemary and tea tree essential oils.
I do not believe that this brings about any significant or accelerated growth but I know moisturizing my edges consistently has yielded great results like any other healthy hair care practice would.
During my hair care ignorant days, I used the curling iron daily on my edges and nape. Needless to say, this caused damage. Today, my edges are fuller and my hair line is not falling out or breaking.

Jamaican Black Castor oil and Jojoba oil are also excellent carrier oils to use along with your essential oils.

Cathy Howse on Protein/Hairdressers

I once had a hairdresser who told me that too much protien will make your hair weak and brittle. I use to use a protien conditioner and she said that I shouldn't do that because it wasn't good for the hair to use constantly. So, I guess I'm asking you if there is such a thing as "too much protien?"

Not if you soften it with moisturizers. Remember who you got that information from. Sorry but hairdressers are not the most reputable people to get hair care information from, if they were, there would have been no need for my research or book. Use protein but ensure your hair is moisturized to keep it softened. I have used protein since I found its benefits for over 12 years. I still use it 2-3 times per month if I need it. Believing hairdressers, is the reason we don't have hair now. I have proven what I say and protein is very needed but you must soften it.

Blow drying tip: Air flow direction

One of the most common mistakes made during this heat styling step is the direction we guide the flow of air coming out of the blow dryer.
The cuticle layers of the hair are comparable to that of scales on a fish. If you have some experience cleaning fish, you know that the best way to raise those scales are to use the knife against the way they lay.
The cuticle layers of the hair are pointing toward the end of the hair strand. Blasting air in the opposite direction lifts the hair cuticles and making it more prone to damage, tangles and roughness.
Guide the air flow in the direction the hair grows for shiny hair and flat cuticles.

Intro guide to trying new things

The experimental stages of your hair journey can be an exciting and fun exploration period. It can also bring about setbacks and pitfalls. Experience really is the best teacher, especially when it comes to your hair.
Everyone's hair has specific needs. A product or technique that worked well for someone else won't always work for you. Trial and error is common and necessary to find the perfect fit.

So you're overwhelmed by all the information and products out there, where do you start?

Simplicity is your best bet: the last thing you want to do is go out and buy all your hair idol's products and follow her specific regimen. Follow a basic regimen first and then slowly add the trimmings as you learn more about your hair.
Find your hair twin: Again, there's no guarantee that her methods will work but you can use key details as a guide to finding what will work for you.
Research: If you're thinking about purchasing a line of products, search multiple unbiased sites for customer reviews. Hair boards are particularly helpful if the hair type and texture of the reviewer is listed.
Youtube: Youtube was a tremendous help to me. It's one thing to read a method and it's another to have a clear visual aid. Take advantage of the many hair guru's that post helpful video tutorials.
Learn from bad experiences: If your hair suffered from using a product, toss it. Even if you spent a grip on it, it's not worth keeping if it's causing harm to the health of your hair.

What would your starting out tips be?

Ingredients: Panthenol

Doesn't Panthenol sound like something you'd want to avoid in a hair product? It did to me.
Panthenol is actually a vitamin B5 derivative.

Used for:
-Humectant properties
-Lubrication
-Provides slip

Get more zzz's for growth?

Jeany asks, "I read on one blog that you should sleep more to grow your hair. What does sleep have to do with hair?"

Well, I assume the idea is that cell renewal is most active at night when resting thus enabling new hair growth.
Other than that basic principle, I'm not aware of any correlation between hours of sleep and hair length.
I do know that when we're asleep, our hair isnt subjected to the elements or styling manipulation.
If anyone else can provide any other information, please inform us!

Don't forget your hairline.

A receding hairline is no joke and it's never cute (Naomi). It's one of the most noticeable signs of unhealthy hair. We have an obligation to those delicate hairs that line our scalp. Having a healthy hairline is key to a polished and healthy look.

Here are a few tips that helped me sprout and keep some of those delicate hairs.

-Skip the small and tight braids an weaves. I honestly cannot fathom any amount of growth in the middle of your head being worth a hairline that has eroded two inches back. Opt for larger and looser braids in the front and tell the person braiding your hair to be gentle on the hairline.

-Cover them at night. Every night when I put on my scarf, I make sure to cover as much hair as possible. That includes the little hairs on the nape and as far down the side burns as I can go. A night of tossing and turning can reek havoc on those fragile hairs.

-Don't forget moisturize or lubricate. I used castor oil for a while and saw great results and now I use coconut oil mixed with essential oils around my hairline every night. I used to fake "baby hair" in H.S, now I have them naturally!

-Watch out for sulfates in your facial cleanser. When I'm doing my face regimen, I'm always mindful of any product coming in contact with my hair. I always rinse well with water afterward and follow with my bedtime hair regimen.

If you have any other tips that work for you, I'd love to hear them.

My scarf issues

You ever have those nights where you're so ready to just melt into the bed that you tightly tie your satin scarf to your head without any regard for the circulation to your brain?
I've done this countless times. It results in headaches, dents and bruises.

I found a little tip that helped: Either put a stocking (wave) cap over the scarf after tying it or put a head band on to hold the scarf in place. It's simple and it works.

The cotton pillow case also made me a little weary so that caused me to tie my scarf tighter for fear of it coming off when I tussled and turned at night .
I'm looking into making the switch to satin or silk pillow cases.

Fear of Glycerin

Glycerin is hailed as an effective natural hair moisturizer by many who use it. I was well on my way to Publix to try some out before I found some troubling user reviews. The accounts were all similar. They went outside and ended up with dried out hair.
Why would a humectant dry out hair?
If you live in a very dry environment, a highly concentrated humectant can pull moisture from your hair onto the surface where it evaporates.
This is why it is important to factor in the climate when measuring out the glycerin to water ratio.
Dry hair scares me to death. I'm too intimidated to experiment, even with all the reviews from people who use it successfully.
How does your mix measure up?